Kira Asahi – Japanese Court Garb

• Item: Japanese Court Garb – Junihitoe

Lady’s Japanese court garb, a “junihitoe” (12-layer garment) including a hand embroidered karaginu (jacket) of my device. This outfit was established in the Heian era (800-1185), but continues to be used for court functions today. This set would be worn from mid-spring through early summer, based on the construction techniques and color scheme. I used patterns from the Jidai Ishô no Nuikata. The garment set, from the inside out:

• Kosode – “underwear” worn next to the skin and not seen; constructed of light weight white undyed habotai silk.
• Nagabakama – Extra-long intense red pants that can be tied up under the knee to walk around; constructed with a very smooth stiff Dupioni silk.
• Hitoe – extra-large white patterned silk broadcloth un-lined underrobe
• Itsutsuginu (5x uchigi) – I created the effect of 5 layers of colored robes in kasane no irome ‘orange tree’ color scheme using modern silk dyes to mimic period/traditional colors. I used a medium silk organza to mimic ‘Aya’ silk and constructed it without a lining, and a single ‘body’ and individual sleeves/collars for the 5 inner robes to keep the weight and heat down.
• Uwagi – Outer robe of gold and green woven silk
• Karaginu – I embroidered the smooth purple Duponi silk jacket using Japanese silk thread on a traditional frame/stand using documented period stitches.
• Mo – white ‘backward apron’ made from heavy silk with obi material for decoration.