A 1589 Sailor’s Coat

Signora Fiore Leonetta Bardi, Barony of Carolingia

EK Wiki: https://wiki.eastkingdom.org/index.php?title=Fiore_Leonetta_Bardi.

A 1589 Sailor’s Coat adapted from Ropa Española para Levantar by Alcega
My Lord Frithuric was in need of a coat after a freak stage accident during a production of Die Fledermaus caused his beloved cloak to be irreparably torn (this might have been my fault).

Frithuric Ulman is a German privateer making his way in late 16th century England (among other places).  He desired a fisherman’s coat such as depicted in the illustration below from The Armada Campaign 1588.  The illustration was based on another — the cover art from The Mariner’s Mirrour of 1588 (also pictured).While the illustrations are tragically unclear about seams, the shape of the coat resembles a style readily available through much of Europe at this time.  As it was not uncommon for a sailor to have second or third hand apparel, especially in something as long-lived as an outer coat, I disregarded the fit example from the illustration in favor of the proportions of the pattern.

I patterned after the Ropa Española Para Levantar in Alcega’s manual as it had the proportions and shape I wanted to attain.  I created and used bara tapes for Lord Frithuric based on Alcega’s instructions to maintain the integrity of the pattern. 

The material is Navy blue wool with a faux shearling lining.  The materials were chosen to evoke the original illustration but in colors that suited both the available materials and my Lord’s preferences.  The interlining was created using cotton canvas pad-stitched to wool felt.  (Said interlining is being removed as my Lord prefers the fit without the interlining and this project is not being submitted as historically accurate).

The coat is hand sewn using coarse linen thread. As you can see it is not yet complete as the lining must be secured to the outer fabric and the hem completed.   

Sources:
Tincey, John and Richard Hook.  The Armada Campaign 1588. Oxford: Osprey Publishing, 1988.  Illustration I-1 & pg 60.
Alcega, Juan de.  Libro de Geometria Pratica, y Traca. Madrid: Guillermo Drouy, 1589.  p. 46.

My woefully out of date blog can be found at: https://guardarobafiore.home.blog

3 thoughts on “A 1589 Sailor’s Coat

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  1. I love the shaping of the shoulders, and that sweep of the raised collar. The pad-stitching is well done (have you watched Bernadette Banner’s pad-stitching tutorial on YouTube?). It hangs beautifully as well…great work!

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